Named mixto, these lunches were crusty on the outside, gooey on the inside. An immigrants’ favorite, they signify the mixed heritage of Ybor City cultures. Slices of juicy, Spanish ham, marinated mojo pork, robust Italian salami and tangy Swiss cheese are punctuated with German mustard and pickle slices. Local sandwich experts know that when the different ingredients marry they become a rousing meal far greater than the sum of its parts. Wright’s Gourmet House owner Jeff Mount, who holds Tampa’s record for most Cuban sandwich contest wins, says his store’s sandwiches were an afterthought. His grandmother, original owner Marjorie Wright, refused to sell them because she didn’t want to be known as a “Cuban sandwich joint.” In the 70’s she changed her mind because she calculated that her Cuban sandwiches could beat the competition. She was right. The former Tampa Tribune’s annual Cuban Sandwich Contest became monotonous. Wright’s started winning, and continued to win, for numerous years. People started to question if the contests were rigged. Eventually, Mount was asked to step in as a judge. Cuban sandwiches don’t just nourish the body and mind; they are half meat and half mystique. “I think it was a way to keep us from winning too many times,” quips Mount. One factor in Wright’s supremacy is its slow roasted pork, seasoned with oregano, salt, and pepper one day before roasting. Other meats are part of its allure. “We have used Bryan Hams (now owned by Hillshire Farms) since I was a little boy, The turkey breast has the flavor profile of Thanksgiving and the peppercorn-flecked, Genoa salami is flown in from Chicago,’’ says Mount. He also finds virtue in the slightly nutty and easily melted “Jarlsberg” Swiss cheese that sandwiches its interior. He layers the sandwiches plain when they are “to go,” although a buttered and hot off the grill sandwich is best, reasons Mount. Wright’s Gourmet House sells about 500 sandwiches every week. Expect each to weigh about ¾ of a pound and be ¾ of a foot long. Out-of-towners often pack up big bundles for a trip home while Mount also has repeat orders for overnight shipping. Tampa’s Cuban bread, which comes in three foot loaves, is an essential foundation. When eating a hot pressed sandwich you can guarantee there will be shattered crumbs on your plate. West Tampa homes often had a nail next to their doors because every morning a deliveryman on bike or foot would deliver and impale one on the door. Wright’s and Columbia Restaurant rely on La Segunda Bakery loaves for their Cubans. Richard Gonzmart says life is great with the fine ham, mojo pork and Swiss cheese sandwich, without lettuce or mayonnaise. These Cubans have history, being served at his family’s Columbia Restaurant since 1915. “We get requests for lettuce and tomatoes, but that takes away from the sandwich. We do offer tomatoes on the side so customers can ruin our classic sandwich if they want to,” he jokes. Family ties are important to Gonzmart who credits his product as one created by his great-grandfather, Casimiro Hernandez, Sr. Gonzmart acknowledges that the product has evolved through the years—for the better. “In the 80s, the pork was too salty so we began to roast our own pork again, instead of buying deli meat,” he says. The cooks stopped pre-slicing the ham and began to bake a fine, glazed ham. The 9-inch, 14-ounce favorite that sells for $9.95 is by far the Columbia Restaurant’s most popular sandwich. A travel writer noticed the link between Cubans and the Columbia years ago: “If a working man wants a Cuban sandwich and a glass of Tropical Ale, he enters Columbia’s corner door, dressed however he may be, and sits down to one.” Gonzmart concurs: “All day long, workers sit around here as if they are home.” THIS PAGE: PHOTO COURTESY OF COLUMBIA RESTAURANT. OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTO COURTESY OF MARY SCOURTES GREACEN. 30 localsDISH MARCH/APRIL 2017
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